“It’s just easier to say you’re Thai,” writes James Syhabout, the chef behind fine-dining-focused Commis in Oakland and Best New Chef back in 2010, in his years-in-the-making cookbook, Hawker Fare.

The chicken foot is classified. It’s not on the menu, but it’s sometimes secretly available if you earned clearance. First, however, you should call ahead to make sure Nok’s Kitchen isn’t already sold ...

Done right, there are few things as restorative as a bowl of noodle soup. Lao Tao, a 25-seat shop on the second floor of Chinatown’s Far East Plaza, has an excellent version. But its bowl of Tawainese ...